Plus Sizing Behind the Scenes

We work hard to gather information from our customers and search for ways to improve our processes, product quality, and fit. Here’s a little behind the scenes peek into what we’re doing to improve our fit quality and consistency across all sizes.

Sizing Development Timeline

The development process for wool& starts with fabric. 1.5 years out, we work with our global textile mill partners to develop custom fabrics from scratch to bring you the most innovative wool fabrics on the market.
About one year in we start making prototypes, so getting samples in our "base sizes" which is MD and 2X (approx. size 8 and size 20).
We typically go through about 3-5 protos to approve a style. Within that one year timeline we fit the silhouette on a range of sizes so we can see it on various body types and make pattern adjustments as needed.
Typically sizes 00-20 are the industry range for a "Misses" size set. “Plus” is defined as sizes 14-40. Based on thorough research and deliberation on a brand's customer demographic, a brand will then choose a base size to fit on, which acts as the middle point to grade a pattern up and down. Essentially, grading is taking one base pattern and increasing/decreasing the measurements to complete the size range. For example, a chest width for Misses sizing might go up and down 2" per size; but Plus grade would go up/down 4" instead, so it grows more proportionately with the body shape.

Photos of Plus sized dress forms (top) and 3D avatars (bottom) from Alvanon (whom we buy our dress forms from).

Some brands will use their base size of a MD or SM and grade all the way up to XXXL. This can cause the style to fit poorly, as the proportions of the larger or end sizes are much different than a S/M.

When we grew big enough to expand our size range, we wanted to do it in the best way possible to honor the diverse body shapes out there. So we divided our size range into Misses and Plus categories, and we are now working with a 2X model who helps guide our fit decisions appropriately.
We wear-test new styles on a range of sizes. All styles are assessed both individually and compared to our existing assortment to ensure that the style looks best with that particular shape/size/silhouette/style details.
Our knit vendor uses the same exact Alvanon dress forms that we use, to achieve an even more consistent fit. Both of us now have the same size MD and 2X dress forms. When we make changes and show images of garment prototypes on both our dress forms and fit models, our vendor can easily see what we mean to make the necessary changes. This can help with cutting down on the amount of prototypes and time it takes before a garment is approved.
In 2022 we hired a patternmaker who specializes in Plus size fit and has previously fit to size 30 (roughly a size 4X).

May 2024 Development update

The development team has been hard at work on our Plus size development and expansion. Here are some updates:

3X: we tested offering 3X in select styles and listened to customer feedback. All styles offered in Plus will now include size 3X.

Long length Plus: we are currently testing an expansion into long lengths in our Plus size options on select styles
Fit consistency: we are focused on offering better fit consistency when comparing Misses and Plus sizes. Keep in mind that some variation in ease occurs to offer the best overall fit for the size range. (To calculate the amount of ease, you subtract your body measurements from the finished garment measurements.)
Fit updates: we are updating our current Plus styles when feedback shows us a need for specific improvements. An example of this is adding more ease to the skirt of the Brooklyn Wrap Dress in Plus sizes based on Plus customer feedback.
Additional feedback: we have added more Plus size wear testers to check our grading on more body types and heights. We would love to add more local wear testers to our roster.

Plus size ranges are often overlooked in the fashion industry. To our Plus customers - we hear you, we see you, and we will continue to listen to your feedback to make the best possible product for you. We’re committed to ensuring that our products have a reliable and consistent fit, so we are working hard to learn from your feedback and partner with industry professionals to deliver improvements.